Yves Saint Laurent Opium, Rather like grapefruit, its near-relation, pomelo is a brilliant, vibrant top note or heart note which adds citrussy sparkle to many perfumes, especially Colognes. "Used in several classical fragrances (like Chanel N5 or Jean Patou Joy), it is also experienced in luxe, modern fragrances. ), FreshCannabis Rose Penhaligons Sartorial. Dior Dolce Vita This black violet, saffron, and rose-scented perfume is a robust fragrance with plenty of depth, and . Its a harvest for patient souls: juniper berries (which can be blue, red-brown or orange) take three years to ripen, and are steam-distilled to release their pungency. Dior Addict Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil A flower employed widely in perfumery. A flowering tree native to China, valued for its delicate fruity apricot aroma. Chanel Coco Funnily enough, its not strictly a member of the lily family at all, though it is also symbolically a wedding flower, and also a funeral flower. Prada Intense Prada Elizabeth Arden Red Door Givenchy Ange ou Demon Do you remember the smell of your school pencil case? Essential oils are popular amongst consumers for their alluring and potent scent. Byredo Accord Oud The West Indian bay tree Pimenta racemosa with its leathery leaves, belongs to the myrtle family. (Interior decorators, as well as perfumers, also love ginger for the sheer architecture of the plants. But in the hands of a gifted nose? Versace Yellow Diamond Caron Farnesiana Penhaligons Peoneve The shift in sustainability, then, is coming from brands developing new technologies to extract essential oils and create safer and cleaner synthetic alternatives. The citrus essences are expressed or . 19 A fragrance without roses is almost as unthinkable as a love affair without kisses. Dior Dolce Vita In perfumery, apricot can be lush and sweet like the fruit or bitter, like the extract of the apricot kernel (think of an Amaretto-ish bitter almond scent). Strictly, white chocolate isnt chocolate at all: its created from cocoa butter, sugar, vanilla. Once upon a time (in the Victorian/Edwardian era), carnation was hugely fashionable (and if you ever manage to get your hands on a bottle of Carons now-extinct Bellodgia, you can experience just why it was so beloved). (Always hoping, of course, for a really sweet, juicy mandarin rather than the occasional disappointment of something a little tart) In Traditional Chinese Medicine, mandarin also has an important role: its used to regulate qi, or life-force and in China itself, the fruits still linked with good fortune and luck. (Castor, by the way, gets its name from the Greek word for beaver. Paco Rabanne Lady Million. ), Run your fingers over the leaves of a redcurrant bush, and youll get a catty quality thats distinctive, intriguing but not to everyones taste. Henry Rose reveals 100 percent of the ingredients used to create its . Credit: Credo Beauty. Symbolically, olive leaves represent abundance (as well as glory) and thats certainly true of this Mediterranean tree, which is quite a multi-tasker in perfume-terms. But it was their appearance in Chanel No. Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse ', Goutal Paris Eau de Lavande Thierry Mugler Womanity Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Serge Lutens Jeu de Peau, Once upon a time, ylang ylang a tendrilled tropical flower which blossoms on a tall tree was known as poor mans jasmine (because it has many similarities, scent-wise). Weve been known to stand there, sniffing, for the sheer pleasure of it. What is it? Geraniols used in perfumery to extend the scent of roses, bringing sheer, floral freshness to blends. Ortigia Sicilia Orange Blossom, Where would perfumery be, without orange? Goutal ParisEau dHadrien Thanks to its aromatic edge, youre most likely to be intoxicated by it in shared (or masculine) creations. Clive Christian C for Women It can be a skin sensitiser for some people, and is therefore listed on fragrance packaging so that it can be avoided by those who have a problem. Issey Miyake Pleats Please These days youve got synthetics which are much easier to use, cheaper to buy and hang around for longer and act more rapidly. (It helps to repel insects even though bees love it, on the plant.) Roja Dove Reckless Its richness allows for multiple ways to create with it,' says perfumer Caroline Sabas. Many of us are familiar with blackberry-picking ourselves: the Rubus fruticosus bramble tangles itself over countless hedgerows, perfect for turning into desserts, jams, jellies and even home-made wine. And if youre ever lucky enough to find yourself standing in a grove of these trees, its an unbelievably delicious, sense-drenching experience. Grasse jasmine contains the highest natural levels of indole one of the reasons its the priciest jasmine in the world. The citys 2000 metres above sea level, and the cooler temperature may be partly responsible for how well it flourishes there, under the control of just five local families. A gum resin, tapped from the True Myrrh tree, or Commiphora Myrrha which originates from parts of Arabia, Somalia and Ethiopia; the resins produced by tapping the tree to make small incisions, from which small teardrop-shaped droplets emerge and are left to harden into bead-like nuggets, which are then steam-distilled to produce an essential oil. And so, Amaretto (the drink) was born. Ethyl benzoate Sweet scent with a medicinal influence. (Strangely, the flower itself is scent-less.). Richard E. Grant Jack, There are over 100 species of lily and it always slightly breaks our heart to buy a bunch and discover: theyre not always scented But many varieties the Madonna lily (named as a nod to the purity of the Madonna), the Casablanca Lily and the Ambre/Stargazer Lily most definitely are, and their subtly different scents are all caaptured in perfumes: intoxicating, heady, rich and sweet, reminding us of jasmine or tuberose. Derived from a lichen that grows on oak trees, oakmoss is prized for its aroma, which is heavy and oriental at first, and then becomes refined and earthy when dried, making it reminiscent of bark, seashore, and foliage. Jo Malone London Grapefruit (Technically, boronia is a member of the citrus family.) (Over the centuries, its also been valued as a medicinal and was actually recommended by the famous herbalist John Gerard; elecampane has been prescribed for shortness of breath and water retention.) In the past few years, fragrance fashion has looked to the Middle East for inspiration and catered to perfume-lovers there who often own as many as 170 perfumes. Acqua di ParmaIris Nobile, Koalas love it. This came after animal studies linked fragrance ingredient p-cymene to headaches, weakness, & irritability, along with the reduction in number and density of brain synapses. It is a skill not many brands have managed to perfect, but Jo Malone has nailed it. Marc Jacobs Oh Lola! Santa Maria NovellaGinestra (Broom) Officina Profumo. Roses are said to feature in at least 75% of modern feminine fragrances, and at least 10% of all mens perfumes. Oakmoss smells earthy, and woody, sensual with hints of musk and amber and is really not like anything else in the perfumers palette because it also works fantastically as a fixative to give scent a longer life on the skin. Narcissus The blossom of the bitter orange tree (a.k.a. (Well, camphor and eucalyptus and even mint smell a little bit like rosemary - but most of us could still make out its distinctive whoosh if blindfolded). French Thyme), or Thymus vulgaris, from which most of the essential oil is steam-distilled. Este Lauder Pleasures, Whoosh! Van Cleef & ArpelsCologne Noir. (All glorious if youre looking for scented plants to scramble over a tree or a trellis although beware with the Japanese variety: its so vigorous, its regarded as an unwanted weed in several states of the USA, as well as in New Zealand. Bark: Tree barks are common ingredients for making perfumes. Gwen Stefani L GoutalParis Le Chevrefeuille Illicium verum has to be the most beautiful-looking spice ever: star-shaped, with tiny, pungently-scented seeds. Formed in 1910 by Coco Chanel, this company really has its finger on the world of fashion. Long-lasting, come-hither, velvety: it really is complex and (virtually) a fragrance in its own right. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio. 19. Este Lauder Pleasures Used in perfumes since ancient times, vetivers more popular than ever and features very, very widely in the base of fragrances because it works brilliantly as a fixative and so far, nobody seems to have come up with a satisfactory synthetic alternative. Its very rarely used as a fragrance note more widely, for the brilliant skin-smoothing, nourishing properties of avocado oil, in body products and facial care. Oscar de la Renta Oscar The fragrant liquid which refreshed Roman guests and was flung up by fountains all around town, however, was rosewater - the water in which roses have been steeped, then discarded. (Its completely unrelated to lime trees, by the way: the name lime evolved from the 16th Century Middle English word lind. "It's a vgtal scent, hay like, which brings a musky sensuality to perfume," says Michalon-Bertier. So do we. But they look fresh, and cheerful, and uplift the spirit and in fragrance marketing, thats can be a useful allusion. The flowers themselves are really mean with their oil, though, and synthetics are more often used to recreate lily of the valleys magic: Lilial, Lyral and hydroxycitronellal are among them. (Hence citral is one of the few perfume ingredients you may see listed on the box your scents packaged in). Dior JAdore LOr Dior Hypnotic Poison Actual fragrances with hints of eucalyptus, however, shouldnt cause any problems. Thierry Mugler Angel. Of course well never know someone, somewhere along the way, got the idea that it would be a good idea to try this potent ingredient out in a perfume: in its raw state, musk oil smells well, a bit like poo And yet, and yet at the same time, strangely intriguing A well-known German fragrance chemist, Phliip Kraft, brilliantly captures musks love-it-hate-it complexity. In India, meanwhile, its known for its aphrodisiac powers (young women are advised not to breathe its scent, after dark.) And in a fragrance? Jovoy Paris Bois Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus It is like sticking bright colored flowers into my army boots. The top offending perfume products were: JLo Glow Perfume, Axe Phoenix Body Spray, Marc Jacobs Daisy Perfume, Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Perfume, and White Linen Perfume by Este Lauder. (Nobodys quite sure where the fruit originated: maybe the southern Mediterranean, maybe China) Because of their luscious, hint-of-raspberry juiciness, blood oranges have become incredibly popular to eat and now theyre making their way into zesty perfumery, too, with a warm, tangy, citrussy, berry-like quality that adds a real sparkle factor to fragrance creations, complementing other citrus elements (mandarin, neroli, grapefruit), as well as rose and geranium, and spicy notes of clove and cinnamon. Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle. Hugo Boss Femme ChloEau de Parfum Intense 19. 5 that changed everything literally sending perfumery on a new, modern trajectory, opening up a world of richness and strength. Through our longstanding contacts in the world of perfume perfumers, bottle designers, brand creators, the fashion designers who have their names on some of the worlds bestselling scents we have our finger on the pulse-point of everything thats happening and we are delighted to share it with you here. Serge Lutens Arabie Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Jasmin. Creed Vetiver A woody evergreen, rosemary has super-fragrant needle-like leaves, and white, purple, blue or pink flowers, depending on the variety. A sack of potatoes. The Different Company Pure Virgin. ChloLove The flowering Vaccinum myrtillus shrub that gives us blueberries is native to north America, but now grown around the world: its nutritious berries arent just delish, theyre packed with health-boosting antioxidants. Cool, green, shady: were eternally fascinated by how perfumers use scented ingredients to give a sense of temperature, through their creations. But in truth, the tuberose used in perfumery nowadays is often a synthetic copy not just because of the price, but because through manipulating the aroma particles, its possible to bring out tuberoses creaminess, or its more camphor-like side. Theyre also often left to produce fruit, which can be infused to extract an intense berry scent. Birch tar can be one of the ingredients going in there. "Used widely in perfumery, indole is often used to bring intrigue and a seductive edge to a scent," says perfumer John Gamba. Mangifera indica originates in the Indian subcontinent, where its prized for its spiritual significance (and even now, its celebrated as the royal fruit); today, there are over 1,000 species in the world. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur We eat grapes, we drink them and sometimes, we dab or spritz a synthesised version on our pulse points. Herms 24 Faubourg This long-stalked plant has been used for centuries for medicinal purposes, as well as in cooking but with a little caution: the stalks may be edible, but the leaves are poisonous. Dior Miss Dior Chrie Nez Nez Hiroshima Mon Amour, Say cashmeran and somehow you know its going to be soft, smooth, almost snuggly. Ionones and methyl ionones have been worked into almost every perfume worn today, and include methyl alpha ionone, which has gorgeous hints of raspberry and woods. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio In general, its a fantasy or synthetic note you smell, rather than any essence from cocoa beans themselves but its there for the sheer, pleasurable links with one of mans (and especially womans) most indulgent foods, Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon Herms Terre dHerms Happily for civet cats, most of the civet now used is synthetically recreated, for ethical reasons (the cats are kept in cages and stressed, in order to produce the secretion) although we have heard that some small perfumers still secretly source the real thing, a practise we absolutely cant condone. Shared ( or masculine ) creations, hay like, which brings a musky sensuality to perfume, '' Michalon-Bertier... Boronia is a member of the few perfume ingredients you may see listed on the box your packaged. Everything literally sending perfumery on a new, modern trajectory, opening up a world of richness strength. 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